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This image became the cover of The Surfers Journal 35.4. Shot just after sunrise, with spin drift and golden light playing games. That Shyama managed to paddle into this once in decades wave, with me in that right spot waiting on the rocks, has made it a classic. You had to be there.
This image became the cover of The Surfers Journal 35.4. Shot just after sunrise, with spin drift and golden light playing games. That Shyama managed to paddle into this once in decades wave, with me in that right spot waiting on the rocks, has made it a classic. You had to be there.